Although the rotating bezel serves to record dive times, this has not stopped Rolex from making a few ultra-lavish Submariners with precious gem-set bezels that forsake the tool watch nature of the model. First, there’s the white gold Submariner 116649EMBR (presented in 2010) with a bezel set with 36 emeralds and 12 diamonds. Then in 2018, Rolex introduced the white gold Submariner 116659SABR with a bezel set with nine light blue sapphires (to mimic the first 15-minute markings), 27 dark blue sapphires, and 12 diamonds.To summarize, the history and evolution of the Submariner bezel is generally divided into three generations: bidirectional bezel with aluminum insert (early-1950s – late-1970s), unidirectional bezel with aluminum insert (late-1970s – late-2000s), and unidirectional bezel with Cerachrom ceramic insert (late 2000s until present). Which is your favorite type of Submariner bezel?
As previously mentioned, the case also received a ceramic “Cerachrom” insert, which is virtually scratch-proof and will not fade and lose its vibrant color like aluminum. The ref. 116613 is also available with Rolex’s patented “Chromalight” lume on the dial, which offers a bright, blue glow for up to 8 continuous hours (as well as larger plots). Similar to the ref. 16613, the newer model Submariner Rolex 116613 is also available with either a blue or black dial and bezel combination. However, the Serti dials on the 116613 only come in blue or black (rather than champagne or silver), and do not feature sapphires set into the markers on the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock locations. Instead, ref. 116613 Serti dials only have 8 diamonds set in them, and feature lume-filled indexes for the 6, 9, and 12 o’clock hour markers.Both the Submariner 16613 and 116613 run on the Rolex Caliber 3135 perpetual movement with a 48-hour power reserve. However, the version of the Cal. 3135 inside the newer ref. 116613 is fitted with an upgraded paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring for better resistance to shocks and temperature variations.
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