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Then there’s the much more subdued fixed stainless bezel of the Explorer II which matches the case and features a 24-hour marked scale. This feature was specifically built for explorers who need to distinguish day from night – think cave explorers or polar explorers in the height of summer when the sun never sets.For decades, the durable and waterproof Oyster case on the Explorer II measured 40mm, but upon its redesign for the 40th anniversary of the collection in 2011, it was enlarged to 42mm. However, while Rolex produces a precious metal version of the Submariner, the Explorer II is exclusively offered in 904L stainless steel, and there have never been any solid gold or two-tone models ever produced. The current Explorer II is only offered on a steel Oyster bracelet with a Oysterlock clasp, but to be honest, when it comes to the Explorer II, collectors are much more concerned with what really makes this watch: the face.The dial of the Explorer II is iconic for a few reasons. The most notable being the colored 24-hour hand which circles the face. First there’s the iconic orange 24-hour hand, originally designed to help polar and cave explorers distinguish night from day, that gained its cult-status from the original “Steve McQueen” reference. Rolex eventually brought back the bright orange hand with much fanfare. Then there’s the red 24-hour hand which graced the dial for decades – it’s distinctly different than the orange hand with a skinnier body and smaller luminous triangle at the tip. The dials with a red 24-hour hand are far less punchy than their orange counterparts, but still make the Explorer II standout from the rest of the Rolex lineup.Then there are the dial colors – available in effortlessly-cool black and the coveted ‘polar’ white. The polar dial is totally cool and clean, the white face outfitted with white lume plots and Mercedes hands outlined in black. The black face on the other hand has a totally different appeal. While it boasts the same features, the darker face really highlights the stainless steel bezel, lume hour plots and lume-filled Mercedes hands (this time in white gold rather than finished black). It’s a punchier look, and the colored 24-hour hand – especially the orange one – shines against the black a little brighter.

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The chemical composition of synthetic green sapphire includes copper and aluminum oxide, with the copper being the element that is ultimately responsible for its signature green hue. The process of synthetic sapphire production is an expensive and exacting one; however, the additional obstacles that accompany the addition of copper – and the precision required to achieve the right amount of green tint without compromising the strength or clarity of the crystal are likely responsible for its exclusive use on the Rolex Milgauss line of watches.When synthetic sapphire is manufactured, the material has to “grow” over the course of a period of several weeks. Particles attract to one another, forming layers that fuse together to create a dense and ultra-hard substance. The end result of production is a “boule” – a solid piece of synthetic sapphire shaped like a chunky cylinder, which is then cut and shaped to its necessary dimensions.Due to the high costs of production, most watch crystal manufacturers cut their synthetic sapphire boules in a perpendicular fashion, as to maximize the number of crystals that can be created from a single boule. Although this is entirely unconfirmed, it is rumored that Rolex cuts the boule along a diagonal axis to maximize the clarity and strength of the finished crystal. In addition to complicating the cutting and shaping process itself, cutting the boule along a diagonal axis significantly increases the amount of waste, which further adds cost to an already expensive manufacturing process.Despite not making an appearance until just over ten years ago, the green sapphire crystal has quickly become one of the defining characteristics of the Milgauss line. Its pale green tint possesses no functional advantages over a traditional, clear/uncolored synthetic sapphire crystal; however, the green crystal that is exclusively fitted to the Rolex Milgauss 116400GV is one of the primary reasons that individuals seek out this particular reference. The green crystal is something entirely unique to the Milgauss collection and is not something that is found on any other Rolex watch, past or present.

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