The men’s Rolex Submariner was developed in 1953 and made its official debut during Basel Watch Fair the following year. One of the first dive watches to offer a 100-meter depth rating, the Submariner essentially paved the way for the modern dive watch as we know it today. Over the years, the Submariner has seen many notable upgrades, including the addition of a date display in the 1960s, the switch from acrylic to sapphire crystals in the late 1970s, and the change from radioactive tritium to photoluminescent lume in the 1990s. The Submariner was initially only available in stainless steel; a two-tone variant didn’t become available until 1984 via the ref. 16803.That brings us to the two examples that are featured here in today’s comparison video. The Rolex 16613 made its debut in 1988 and was the final aluminum bezel Submariner. The ref. 116613 was introduced in 2009 and features a completely redesigned feature set that swapped the aluminum bezel out for a tougher Cerachrom ceramic insert and features an all-new case and bracelet design. While both references are similar, they each bring a different aesthetic to the table.The Rolex Submariner 16613 was produced for over twenty years. During that time, it became available in many variations, including either a black or blue dial and bezel set, stunning champagne or silver “Serti” dials adorned with gems, lug holes on the case or no holes, and different luminous material on the dial. Two features that remain consistent among the reference variations are the two-tone steel and gold finish of the case and the aluminum insert on the bezel.With the unveiling of the modern 116613 Submariner in Yellow Rolesor (aka two-tone stainless steel and 18k yellow gold) came a newer-style “Super Case” which, despite offering the same 40mm diameter as the ref. 16613, appears slightly larger. The lugs and crown guard are wider, and the bezel received a new mounting design, giving the case a slightly more robust appearance and refined bezel action.
The first ceramic bezel Submariner appeared in 2009 with the introduction of the steel and gold Rolex reference 116613. A stunning blend of classic and modern dive watch design, the ref. 116613 has since become a highly sought-after dive watch, both at retail and on the pre-owned Rolex market. Other metal variations of the ceramic (aka “Cerachrom”) bezel Submariner would later follow. However, none is as intriguing as the Rolex Submariner two-tone example.The Rolex Submariner was introduced to the market in the early 1950s and was the first timepiece in the brand’s catalog to offer water resistance up to 100 meters. This depth rating would eventually be increased to up to 300 meters, where it remains for the modern versions of the Submariner that are sold today. Other notable upgrades made to the line over the past six decades include improved materials (904L Oystersteel), longer-lasting lume (Chromalight), higher-beat Caliebr 3135 perpetual movements, tougher scratch-resistant sapphire crystals, and unidirectional rotating timing bezels.The Submariner was first offered in stainless steel, then in yellow gold. The first two-tone Submariner wasn’t released until 1984, with the reference 16803. This take on Rolex’s famous professional diver introduced the line to a brand new level of collectors who sought a gold Rolex but didn’t have the budget for an all-gold timepiece. Fast forward to 2009 with the release of this article’s featured ref. 116613, a completely redesigned dive watch with an upgraded bracelet and case, a redesigned bezel fitted with a ceramic insert, and a larger display on the dial.The Rolex Submariner is a dive watch legend. From its many appearances in the James Bond franchise to gracing the wrists of numerous A-list celebrities, the Submariner has become one of the most recognizable and coveted luxury watches in the world. The line is varied and offers options in either an all Oystersteel (904L stainless steel), Rolesor (two-tone steel and gold), or solid 18k gold. Today, we will compare two of the most iconic two-tone Rolex Submariner references – the Rolex 16613 and Rolex 116613.
And of course, the movements of both watches are COSC certified chronometers.But the bracelets are where we begin to see differences between the Sub and the GMT. The Submariner gets Rolex’s folding Oysterlock safety clasp with their Glidelock extension system. The GMT’s Oyster bracelet, on the other hand, buckles with a simpler folding Oysterlock safety clasp with and Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link. There have been multiple cases where the Submariner and the GMT are compared.The biggest difference between the two watches is the GMT’s additional hour hand tipped with a triangular “arrowhead.” This hand indicates the hours in 24-hour format. This fourth hand can be set independently of the main hour hand, and the 24-hour time is marked on the bi-directional rotating bezel.In fact, when moving across time zones, one can move the GMT’s regular hour hand to reset to local time without affecting the 24 hour hand’s position. This makes such adjustments easy and routine for the busy traveler.With the Submariner, choices of bezel and dial colors depending on the metal chosen means you have numerous variations from which to choose. The uni-directional bezel is marked in typical dive watch fashion of five minute increments, numbers each ten minutes, and the first fifteen minutes in one-minute tick marks.Even though the GMT features Rolex’s patented Triplock screw-down crown system, the watch is only rated to 100M/330Ft (in all metals). The Submariner is rated to 300M or 1000Ft. This is interesting, given that both watches are housed in the super case.So there you have it. The Submariner and the GMT-Master II are fraternal twins, nearly identical, but each with its own capabilities.5 of the Best Looking Rolex Cerachrom Bezels Rolex isn’t known for being particularly bold with design. However, what they are known for is being innovative, whether that’s creating their own alloys like Everose or mastering the art of hard-to-achieve colored dials. Most recently, one of their biggest innovations to roll out was their new and improved Cerachrom bezels, like those that can be found on the Rolex Daytona and GMT-Master II.Because the bezel on a watch is so exposed, it is often susceptible to shocks, corrosion, fading and scratching. Therefore, Rolex wanted to upgrade specific Professional models in their Oyster collection from aluminum bezel inserts to something much more durable. In typical Rolex fashion, they’ve created their own durable ceramic called Cerachrom – which is a mix of the words “ceramic” and the Greek word for color, “chrom.”Today, we’re looking at the best of the best of these Cerachrom bezels. The most good looking, handsome, and striking examples since this new material was rolled out.I wanted to note this one first because it just looks so different than the other Cerachrom bezels that Rolex has produced. That matte, sandblasted ceramic bezel has this effortlessly modern feel, and is kind of everything that you’d want to see out of a new material. Plus, that black bezel just totally pops against the Everose case.They said it couldn’t be done. When Rolex first unveiled their Cerachrom bezel in 2005, they did so in one solid color and actually admitted that it was just too hard to do a two-colored bezel with the material. Then in 2013, they presented us with this – a blue and black bezel that became instantly iconic. It was a great addition to the GMT-Master II lineup, but it also further illustrates Rolex’s dedication to innovation. Plus it’s totally sharp, right?This is a jaw-dropping look – that Chestnut brown monobloc Cerachrom against an icy blue dial. It’s unique, it’s beautiful, and it’s all executed so well. The Daytona is already a love-it-or-hate-it watch, so it’s fitting that they’ve chosen to go with such a bold, and frankly fun choice for the bezel here.The blue Cerachrom bezel on the Yacht-Master II is just striking. The way the bold blue contrasts against the white dial and Oyster case is just so elegant.
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