The Oyster case was an innovation of its time when it was developed by Rolex in 1926. It ushered in a brand new era of durable, everyday watches that could be worn during almost any activity without damaging the internal movement. The Submariner takes the design of the Oyster case one step further and increased its waterproofness up to 300 meters/1,000 feet.The ref. 16613 features a standard 40mm case in highly corrosion-resistant 904L stainless steel. An 18 karat yellow gold screw-down crown and unidirectional bezel accompany the case, giving it a desirable two-tone design. The dial and bezel set are most commonly available in either black or blue, with some examples of the gem-set “Serti” dial (either champagne or silver in color and set with diamonds and blue sapphires) also available on the secondary market. Depending on the year produced, the ref. 16613 also features either a holes or no holes case and either Tritium or LumiNova used for the luminescence on the dial and hands.Regardless of the year of production, all two-tone Rolex 16613 Submariner watches are powered by Rolex’s trusty Caliber 3135 automatic movement. The 31-jewel movement beats at a rate of 28,800bph and includes a date complication, a 48-hour power reserve, automatic winding technology, and a sophisticated Breguet overcoil balance-spring. The movement has been a fixture in many Rolex wristwatches for more than three decades, and for a good reason. The Cal. 3135 has proven itself to be an accurate and robust movement, which can deliver decades of reliable performance if properly maintained.
But as so often happens, any objections were short-lived. Fairly soon after its arrival, the LV (standing for Lunette Verte, or green bezel) started attracting much more of the right kind of attention, with devotees learning to appreciate the eccentricities. It also had the definite whiff of a future classic, something that set collectors with one eye on future monetary gains to gravitate towards it.As it turned out, they were right. Just seven years after its introduction, the Kermit was withdrawn to make way for the ref. 116610LV. Now housed in the beefed-up Super Case, this new piece added a green dial to match the bezel, leading to it being known colloquially as the Hulk.A short run of an unusual edition of a true industry giant has seen prices for the Kermit far outstrip the equivalent classic black models, and should be set to only get higher with time. Definitely one to consider.This one is a real puzzler. There hasn’t been a black and red bezel GMT-Master (much better known as the ‘Coke’) since 2007. That was when the last reference to offer the option, the ref. 16710, was scrubbed from the lineup. This means that there has never been a Cerachrom example of this archetypal and hugely popular Rolex color scheme, which we originally saw debut on the very first of the GMT-Master II references way back in 1983, the ref. 16760 (nicknamed the ‘Fat Lady’).The red and black had enough of a distinction from the blue and red bezel pieces to warrant its place, and as we all know, the ‘Pepsi’ has been (and still is) a massive seller for the brand.
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